In buying makeup brushes, most women are at a loss as to what to look for in a good quality brush. As a makeup artist, I live by my brushes, and every professional artist will tell you, that a makeup brush can make or break your work. So why should you settle for anything less? Here's what the pros look for in the tools of the trade.

1. First thing to look at is the quality of the HAIR. The best is natural hair, as in Squirrel, Sable, Pony, etc. And it's also the most expensive, but it's definitely worth it. A "natural" brush should last your entire lifetime. And natural hairs get softer and more pliable over time. Synthetic hairs get coarser, stiffer, and can "prickle" when used. So after about a year or two of usage, you'll find yourself looking for another brush. First off, you can tell natural hairs by the feel. Super soft, and silky to the touch. And natural hairs tend to have a dull glow. Synthetic hairs are stiffer, and can have a super glossy sheen added to the hairs. So try the "FEEL" test. Brush the bristles across the inside of your wrist. How does it feel? That's how it'll feel on your face.

Which type of hair is best? Sable hair gets a vote for being the most durable of the bunch. SABLE hair is excellent for lip brushes, blush brushes and large eyeshadow brushes. It'll last through all the wear and tear you'll put it through. SQUIRREL hair is the most baby soft hair you'll ever feel, but it's also the most fragile. Heaven for powder and eye shadow brushes. Squirrel hair is definitely more expensive, and you'll have to baby them, but it's worth it. PONY hair usually is combined with synthetic hairs to provide a softer feel. TAKLON brushes are the cream colored stiff bristles, that are used for cream applications, like concealer. Taklon doesn't 'soak' up the product, so you get more of it on your face. I've also tried it for foundation applications for a super matte coverage.

2. Okay, you've figured out the type of hair, next is the construction of the brush itself. Give it two tests before you buy. I call them the "Push & Pull" and the "Flip" test.

First, push and pull at the bristles from the handle. Is there any give when you pull? If there is, it means that the bristles aren't glued very well into the "ferrule," or metal base of the brush. After several washings, this brush is going to fall apart. Next, flip the brush back and forth against your hand. Any bristles flying out? The hairs are not packed in well enough, so again, your brush is going to fall apart. Chinese goat hair brushes are known for "flying" when you work with them, partly because of the bamboo handle. It's much harder for the bristles to be well glued into the bamboo base. Does your brush pass these tests?

3. Now, we check the cut of the hairs. Brushes are cut into two types. A "straight" cut, where all the bristles are lined up flat (sort of like a blunt hair cut) and "chisel" cut, where the ends are tapered in a layered effect. I prefer the 'chisel' cut, because one, it's much softer to the touch, and two, the chisel hairs tend to pick up color more evenly on the brush, making for a blended application. You'll find that with straight cut brushes, it tends to place your color more in one spot and you have to blend more. Yes, chisel cuts are generally more expensive, but it's definitely worth it. Check out your lip brushes as well. The best lip brush? You want a tapered tip, with a fairly large base(or width). Most lip brushes are too small, and too flat. Since your lips are rounded, it's hard to get a smooth line from a straight brush. Can't find one? Try a small rounded, chisel cut eyeshadow brush. Works even better!

4. Short handle or long handle? Well, I prefer the long handle myself when I work, for I feel I have more control over the product. Don't ask me why, it's an "artist" thing. But a lot of brushes are available in either short or long handle. Hold them both and see which one you like the feel of. Not sure? Then I'd get the short handle. So when you travel, or you have to throw them in your purse, you'll know that they'll fit....

5. Okay, we have our brushes, now we must keep them in tip top shape. My favorite product to keep them sanitized is the Brush Cleaner from Joe Blasco. A blue colored liquid, that smells just like vanilla, this great cleaner completely pulls out all makeup (even lipstick), instantly sanitizes, and dries within minutes for instant reuse. Available at any theatrical makeup supply. And you can reuse it over and over. Usually, 2 tablespoons can be used to clean your whole brush collection. Does the liquid look dirty? Don't worry, you can still use it if you can still see the color being pulled onto your paper towel or Kleenex.

Or, you can also use your favorite shampoo (this IS hair you know), my favorite being Aveda's Shampure, (a conditioning shampoo will soften hairs even more, and you don't have to do the conditioning rinse later...helps to save a step.) Wash completely in sudsy warm water, and squeeze out any excess water, and press into shape. If possible, let the brushes dry lying down, or hanging with the hairs facing down. This prevents the water from going into the ferrule and loosening the glue, thus losing your bristles. Let them dry overnight, and the next day you're ready for use again.

Okay, I can tell you're dying to go out and get some new makeup brushes......which ones should you get? Here's my opinion on the absolute basics in makeup brushes to own:

1. POWDER Brush - The larger the better. The larger the brush, the softer the powder will go on. Looking for a matte finish? Look for a oversize-large blush brush instead. And this is a must in 'squirrel' hair. Believe me, you'll thank me later!

2. BLUSH Brush - If possible, get two. One in sable and one in the white 'goat' hair. Sable hair will apply the color pretty close to how you see it in the pan. The goat hair, being much softer, picks up less, so it's great for those colors that you feel are too dark or too bright. Apply them with the goat hair brush, and you may get a second life out of those colors yet! See? You never know what a brush can do. Also, for size, make sure the brush fits exactly the "apple" of your cheek when you smile for the best application. Too large and you'll get blush all over, too small, and the color will streak. (See? It wasn't you, it was just the brush!)

3. CONTOUR Blush Brush - this brush is optional, but a must for those of you who love contouring cheekbones. A sable brush, and in a chisel cut, make sure the brushes are cut at a deep angle (sort of like a super large angle eyeshadow brush). And you want the tapered cut to be small enough to just fit into the hollow of the cheekbone.

4. LIP Brush - in sable, in the chisel tapered cut. Make sure the width of the brush is 1/8" wide or larger. Any smaller and you'll have a hard time controlling the brush. Hard to find, but I've found them in the art supply stores. No, NOT the dinky little retractable brush (they don't work!). This brush is key for picture perfect lips.

5. ANGLE Brush - You want this angle brush to be the tiniest littlest brush you own. The smaller the brush, the thinner the line you'll get when doing eyebrows, and applying eyeshadow as eyeliner, either wet or dry.

6. EYESHADOW Brush - You'll want about 4 different kinds. A small, medium, large and another large brush. All chisel cut to avoid wasting eyeshadow, and in sable or if you can afford it, squirrel. The small brush is for highlighting the bone, and doing fine detail touches. The medium is for the crease, and for any color work, and the largest brush is for the lid. The second large brush should be the same, but this one is kept clean, and meant only for blending. This will keep your colors straight, and keep your brushes from applying color on "dirty".

7. CAMOUFLAGE Brush-optional. Do you do a lot of concealing? Under the eyes or around the nose? Then a Taklon camouflage brush is a must. You'll find you put less concealer on, with less 'drag' then if you used your fingers. Get a fairly large, wide Taklon brush for under the eyes, and a small tapered one for spot work, like around the nose or lip, or for concealing blemishes. Puts it right where you need it.

There you go, the perfect makeup brush collection. As they say, the painter is only as good as his tools....

Elke Von Freudenberg, FashionStance's Beauty Editor, has recently put the finishing touches on her new makeup line. She is also busy working coast-to-coast as a professional make-up artist.